Ushguli sits at around 2,100 metres beneath the glaciers of Mount Shkhara. Four small hamlets, dozens of stone towers and a handful of families make up what is often called the highest continuously inhabited settlement in Europe.
The road in
From Mestia the track is roughly 45 kilometres of gravel, river crossings and switchbacks. It takes around two hours in a private 4×4, and every bend is a photograph. In wet weather the route can close, so our guides always keep a flexible plan.
What you will see
The Svan towers date mostly from the 9th to 12th centuries. Families built them to defend against invaders and against blood feuds, and many are still owned by the same lineages. The tiny Lamaria Church above the village holds frescoes that are almost a thousand years old.
A night in the village
Stay in a family guesthouse and eat what the household cooks: kubdari, Svan salt, fresh cheese and homemade bread. In the morning a gentle walk brings you to the foot of the Shkhara glacier.
The best months are June to September. Bring warm layers even in summer, because the evenings are cold.